#VintagePledge - more of the same

I knew as soon as I'd finished Style 2912 I knew that I needed more than one of these dresses in my wardrobe. I just love it so much: the easy shape; the neckline; the fact that I don't have to add pockets because it has them already. I bought the fabric more or less as soon as the first one was finished, but then Things Happened, and it all got a bit delayed.

The pattern layout is for fabric without nap, whereas the craft cotton fabric I chose has a strong directional print. I bought extra, but it was only just enough. Despite that, with careful cutting out I managed to get all the pieces, even the facings and pockets, cut in the right direction. (Indeed yes, I am a slightly obsessive completist - why do you ask?!)

Scatter Joy by Kathy Davis for Fabric Traditions

Finding buttons was tricky. This is nearly always the case: I think that I must just be very, very particular about buttons! I wanted gold ones, to tie in with the gold dots on the fabric, but everything I found was far too shiny for what I had in mind. Fortunately on my London trip MacCulloch and Wallis came up trumps, with the perfect buttons in matte gold.

Exactly what I was looking for

If I thought the buttons were difficult to source, this was nothing compared to the belt. Really, how hard can it be to find a narrow navy leather belt? Very hard, as it turned out. In the end I gave up and took my inspration from the pattern envelope.

Going back to the source material

I bought some dark blue fabric and made an obi-style belt, using the one I made for New Look 6184 as a pattern.

And here is the end result.

The finished dress

Just how much I love this pattern was apparent when I came to sort out the photographs for this post. Usually I take lots of pictures, and can immediately discount several of them. In every single photo I took this time, I'm looking ridiculously pleased with this dress.

Looking back at the original post, I haven't actually achieved my Vintage Pledge this year. My pledge was to:

Make up at least three of my vintage patterns from the period 1960 - 1989.

Well I have made up three dresses: two from 1979 and one from 1967, but only from two patterns. Must do better next year!

#VintagePledge - Style 2912

Making this up was an odd mix. On the one hand it was very straightforward: the pattern dates from 1979, the year after I started making clothes on my own in earnest, so the style of illustrations and instructions etc, were entirely familiar. On the other hand a couple of the techniques used were new to me.

I always pre-wash my fabrics, and when I was ironing this one I noticed a couple of small tears in it. Nothing major, but I did have to alter the cutting layout to work around them.

I tacked around the holes to make sure that I didn't miss them

Because the stand neckine is a separate section of the dress, it was far easier to do than on other patterns I've used where it is part of the bodice front. Here it was just sewn onto the main part of the dress, then the two sections flipped inwards, and attached to the dress along the bottom. Then a facing was added to enclose all the raw edges.

The collar section pinned in place

The sleeves were slightly odd in that the opening had a facing rather than a placket and cuff.

The sleeves and facings

Once the facing was sewn on, a small dart was stitched above the sleeve opening, and the two ends of the facing joined over that.

The sleeve dart

None of this was difficult, just different from the techniques I'm used to. It was all just a case of following the instructions. The rest was easy. Kerry of Kestrel Makes is a fan of 1970s patterns and on this evidence I can see why: there's a lot to like. No waist seams requiring complicated pattern shortening. Pockets as standard (yesssssss!). No zip. I had some Liberty buttons which I had bought for another project and not used, and which turned out to perfectly match the colour of the small roses on the fabric. I dispensed with the rouleau loops for the buttons as I felt that my fabric was a bit too thick for them, and made buttonhole-stitch loops instead.

I absolutely love the end result. It helps that the fabric feels right for the period, both in terms of colour and pattern. I also managed to find a belt which is an absurdly good colour match.

The finished article

I can't help wondering why I love this dress so much. Yes, it's practical, and the sort of unfussy style that I like, but I think there's more to it. It's back to the theory that you will always like the styles you wore when you were 17. I was 15 when this pattern came out, not 17, but at some level it takes me back to a time when life didn't involve such tiresome things as tax returns and clearing leaves out of guttering!

My attempts to style the look in true 1979 fashion were scuppered by the fact that 'American Tan' tights have gone the way of Vesta curries and the test card (mourned by no-one, I imagine), but I did at least pin my hair back with combs and attempt to coax my fringe into a more period-appropriate flick.

Aiming for the 1979 look

I can see more 1970s patterns featuring in my future makes.

#VintagePledge - into the 1970s

Way back in January, in my plans for this year's pledge, I wrote that it was time to drag myself away from the 1940s and 50s styles I love, and explore the period 1960-1989. I made a start with Butterick 4384 (1967), but I must admit that my next plan is a bit of a cheat.

The late 1970s (and early 1980s where I grew up, it was not at the cutting edge of fashion!) saw a revival of 1940s looks. Hair appeared in rolls, or pinned up with clips or combs. Skirts got straighter, and shoulder pads made an appearance: not the gigantic, have-to-go-through-doors-sideways ones of the later 1980s, just a more defined shoulder.

sort-of rolled hair and Vogue 1718 by Bill Blass, 1977

Another rolled 'do' in the centre, and padded shoulders - Style 2890, 1979

Hair comb and Vogue 1725 by Jean Muir, 1977

Modern hair but 1940s-style dresses - Style 2861, 1979

The pattern I'm going to make is also from 1979, Style 2912. Unlike 2861 it has no fitting at the waist, relying on a belt for shaping.

More hair swept up on view 3

It is also an early version of multi-size patterns, combining sizes 12 and 14. I'm a size 14, but the pattern has been cut to a 12. However because it is printed with both cutting and sewing lines, it was easy to just add the seam allowance to the larger sewing lines, and trace off the correct size.

Front, showing the dual lines and notches

I am making view 1, the long-sleeved version, and I managed to find a cotton remnant in a reasonably period appropriate colour and print. Style was my favourite brand, and I made up lots of their patterns in the late seventies and into the 1980s; just seeing that logo on the top of the envelope brings back lots of memories. So I'm looking forward to making this one - it will be a real blast from the past!