Another completed project

This time it's my first/second version of Butterick 3794; first because it was the tacked-together toile I made to ensure that my regraded pattern fitted, and second because after making the 'proper' dress I decided to remodel this one into a more 1940s style.

Putting narrow ties at the back instead of the wide half-belt was an easy change to make.

The original design and the more period version

The sleeves were altogether trickier. I wanted a smoother sleeve head than the original big puffy 1980s-ness, and originally tried adapting the sleeve from Simplicity 4463/1777.

The sleeve style I wanted

However, I discovered that the armscye of the Butterick pattern was cut far more deeply, so even though the sleeve head fitted into it, moving my arms caused the bodice to pull a lot. Also, my attempt at a darted sleeve head didn't work at all. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of any of this frustration.

In the end, I basted the original sleeves back in, and then pinned out as much fullness as I could remove while retaining arm movement. Then I drafted a new sleeve head based on the reduction, and combined this with the arm part of the Simplicity pattern.

Cutting out the new sleeve from the old

The sleeve head was gathered. Because the shoulder seam is quite short, the shoulder pad extends into the sleeve slightly, and supports the gathers.

The sleeve style I got

It's not perfect, but it's a great deal better than the bigger-than-my-head original!

When your expression says it all

There's no denying that the end result is far more 1980s-does-1940s than true 1940s. The neckline is wider than was common at the time, as are (despite my best efforts) the sleeves, and it has a long centre-back zip. Also, the print isn't remotely forties. But for all that, I do like the finished dress - possibly because of the amount of 1980s-does-1940s stuff I wore 40 years ago!

The finished dress

The main thing is that it will get worn, rather than just put in the offcuts bag to be chopped up for stuffing. I did wonder whether it should be added to the Stashometer, as I don't include fabric bought for toiles in the 'purchases' side. But I do include items made from stash in the 'used' side so, based on this slightly questionable logic, in it went.

What is this strange, non-red, colour?

I can't remember when the Stashometer last showed green!