|My pattern choice for January|
Part of the reason why this dress is taking so long is that I made life harder for myself by altering the cutting layout. Like many of Butterick's other full-skirted pattern reissues, 5748 has the skirt cut at right angles to the bodice - along the fabric rather than across it.
|Cutting layouts for different views and fabric widths|
This wasn't a problem when I made Butterick 6582. The bold floral print looked much the same both up-and-down and sideways.
|This fabric hides everything|
The stash fabric I'm using for 5748 however is strongly directional.
|This fabric does not|
I didn't want to have the black elements of the pattern running up and down on the bodice, and sideways on the skirt, so I used an approach which was common in the 1950s.
This Weldons pattern is a good example, as it also has a full skirt - in this case it's a semi-circle.
Because the completed skirt sections would be wider than most fabrics available at the time, they are split into two pieces; the skirt and the skirt gore.
|Instructions showing the pattern pieces|
These are stitched together, and then the completed pieces are sewn up to make the skirt.
|The skirt construction|
I folded my fabric in half lengthways, and cut out the skirt front and back on the fold. Before I unpinned the pattern from the fabric, I marked where the edge of the fabric was, making an allowance for the seam. Then I used the pattern piece to cut out the extension. Naturally, I had to pattern match the join - I couldn't bring myself not to! And then, I decided to alternate between black and light grey thread on the join, to make sure that the stitches don't show. Talk about a glutton for punishment!
|Attaching one of the skirt gores|
Because the viscose is so thin, I used a thicker cotton for the lining than I'd normally use, to give the dress some body. I also had to patch one of the bust darts with a lighter section of the fabric, to stop one of the back circles from showing through. The only other changes I made were my usual ones of swapping the zip to the right side and adding a pocket in the left side skirt seam.
This is the dress as it currently looks. I'll post some pictures of me wearing it when I finally finish the hems! I'm hemming it with the light grey thread, and going over the stitches in the black sections with a black permanent laundry marker pen. I did the same on the hand-picked zip.
|On Nancy, awaiting hemming|