Sunday 7 October 2012

Patterns past and present. Part 2

Vogue 5949 was the real surprise of my collection. Despite dating from 1963, the pattern pieces are unprinted.

1963, but unprinted

This pattern has a single metric reference, the first I found in my vintage patterns. At the top left of the envelope front the bust measurement is given as 86cm as well as 34".

Envelope back

The yardage details on the back include '1" Belting for B belt interfacing'. I was intrigued as to how the belt was made, as neither of the belted dresses illustrated on the envelope front have buckles. This must have been artistic licence however, as the sewing instructions (unlike Maudella 5151, there are instructions on making the belt) include attaching the buckle and making hand sewn eyelets.

The sewing guide has an unusual layout, with lots of illustrations and instructions together, and arrows linking the two. It does allow several instructions to be explained in the same illustration, for example 11, 12 and 13.

The curious instruction layout

As well as this there are instructions on fitting, which start with, "Wear the heel height and type girdle you plan to wear with the garment". Presumably not wearing a girdle was unthinkable.

Like my other Maudella pattern, 5391 does not have a date on it. However the envelope front proudly announces that this is a 'Printed Pattern'.

Printed, and considerably cheaper than the Vogue pattern

The whole envelope design is simpler; the front has just the illustrations and back views, while the back has the fabric requirements, albeit for 36" wide fabric only, and details of the pattern pieces.

A much simpler envelope layout

The pattern pieces look very boldly printed to me, although this may be because they are for a single size. Interestingly, there is information on the pattern pieces in three languages as well as English, and the seam allowances are marked as 5/8" and 1.5cm.

Printed pattern pieces

The price has gone up by 3d, possibly to pay for all that printing! The instruction sheet hasn't got any larger, though, and is only in English.

By 1967 Simplicity patterns no longer announce "printed pattern" on the envelope, presumably it is no longer a novelty. It is the first of my patterns to include "synthetics" as a suggested fabric, although only for view 2; presumably for the skirt, collar and pocket flaps.

Synthetics make an appearance

The pattern pieces for Simplicity 7066 are printed in five languages as well as English.

My 36" bust still makes me a size 16, though.

A postscript to last week's post. Yesterday I was telling my mum about looking through my patterns, and the extra pattern pieces I'd found with Simplicity 2683. She explained that the fabric she had used was quite narrow, so she'd had to split the skirt pieces. It was a crisp white seersucker with an overall pattern of blue flowers, and she had edged the collar and cuffs with broderie anglais trim, as suggested in the pattern. Funny how both of us have trouble remembering something we did a couple of weeks back, but can recall in detail clothes we made ages ago!

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