Sunday, 3 May 2026

Remodelling

Much as I like my 1986 dress, I don't like it enough to need two of it. It was a complex pattern, and I had to regrade it by several sizes, so I made a mock-up before I started on the real thing. This turned out to fit reasonably well, and just binning it goes against what I’m trying to do with my sewing. Instead, I've decided to lean into the existing 1940s-ish elements of the design, and tweak it to make it even more retro.

Because it was only ever tacked together, it's easy to unpick where needed. The first change I want to make is simple, in fact I've already done it; replace the right-sides-together waist seams with a forties overlaid seam.

The new waist seam

Next is the waist fasten. The wide, elaborate, half belt at the back is a striking feature, but not remotely right.

Eighties yes, forties no

1940s dresses often had self-fabric tie belts.

Self fabric belts

Or ties attached in the side seams, like Simplicity 4463.

Just visible on view 2

Because the dress has its mini-eiderdown centre front panel, this is the style I'm going to use.

The area which needs most work is the sleeves and shoulders. Yes, 1940s dresses had defined shoulders, but not this defined.

You could rest a teacup on those shoulders

The only forties pattern I have with anything like such an extreme line is this one.

Sleeve flanges ahoy!

1930s and 40s sleeve heads sometimes had small darts.

The darts are visible on the plain version

But whether darted or not the effect was nearly always a smooth sleeve head, again like Simplicity 4463.

Not a gather in sight

The sleeves themselves were narrower as well.

A selection of sleeves on 1940 Vogue patterns

The new version will take some working out, but the sleeves of Butterick 3794 are so large that I should have plenty of fabric to play with.