Sunday 27 August 2023

Vogue’s Book of Practical Dressmaking - part 1, advertisements

The 'Georgian lady' V insignia makes an appearance

I recently added this 1926 publication to my library of old sewing manuals. Like its successor, it only cost one shilling.

Showing the full size

This seems very reasonable, given that at the time Vogue magazine itself cost one shilling per fortnightly issue and Vogue Pattern Book, which was then sold separately and had six issues per year, cost one shilling and sixpence (1½ shillings). Most Vogue patterns cost either one shilling and sixpence or two shillings and sixpence, while a few "last minute especially advanced designs" cost four shillings.

Vogue Pattern Book information

I'm guessing that the low price was because the book was a sort of loss leader, to sell more patterns, and also to sell the pattern book and Vogue itself. It also made some money for Condé Nast by carrying advertisements at the front and back of the book, which are the subject of this post. Click on any of the images to enlarge them.

There are more advertisements than in the 1932 edition. As with later copies of Vogue Pattern Book, they are a mixture of sewing-related and more general female-interest items.

Harrods took out two separate adverts, one at the front and one at the back. The first lists some of the fabrics they have for sale, mostly wools and silks, and is one of the few to include prices.

So many fabrics, in so many colours!

The second is for synthetic 'Celanese' fabrics (made from wood pulp), available in different weights for dresses and lingerie.

"Textures for every fashion need"

The manufacturer British Celanese advertised their relatively new fabric as well, albeit without any details of stockists.

Extolling the virtues of 'Celanese'

Not to be outdone, Courtaulds also advertised, although their fabrics seem to have been exclusively for lingerie.

"Cami-Bockers"?

Clearly there was competition in the synthetic fabrics market, hence the 'Xantha' name being included on the selvedge. A similar tactic was used by Louis Velveteen. I've been able to find adverts for this product going back to 1885, but none later than this one.

Was this the last hurrah for Louis Velveteen?

According to this website, John Falconer and Co was founded in 1928, and was taken over by House of Fraser in 1952.

Tweeds from Aberdeen

Kendal Milne also became part of the House of Fraser group. Now called Kendals it is that rarest of things, a department store which still exists (although I doubt if it still sells fabric).

Samples by post - the internet shopping of its day

There is an advertisement for Darnley's in the 1928 issue of Vogue which I blogged about here, so possibly they were regular advertisers.

All the awkward bits done for you

Unsurprisingly, the only clothing advertisements are for items which home dressmakers could not make themselves.

George West seem to have specialised in rainwear

Corset adverts appeared regularly in Vogue Pattern Book

How to make yourself entirely cylindrical

Shoes only occasionally appeared in the pattern book

But stockings, especially Aristoc, were another regular

Like Aristoc, Ovaltine and Boots are still going strong.

Don't omit to soothe and feed your nerves

When Boots sold laundry soap

Phyllis Earle was founded in 1918, and seems to have later concentrated on hairdressing. If this rather alarming advertisement for its skincare is anything to go by, that may have been a wise decision.

This would not tempt me to buy a product

Sandwiched between these advertisements is about 60 pages of sewing information, but that will be the subject of another post.

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