Sunday 23 October 2022

A pattern mini-haul

I've not had a lot of time for sewing this week, but it's not been as issue as I'm in a bit of a sewing slump at present. It hasn't stopped me from acquiring a few patterns, though. They are quite a mixed bag, so here they are, in date order.

Does three items count as a 'haul'?

I was killing some time browsing in an antique centre when I spotted this rather crumpled envelope.

Not very promising to the untrained eye

It was the word "patterns" which jumped out at me, along with the label. It was clearly a pattern ordering slip from a newspaper or magazine - you filled it in with your details and sent it off, and it was used as the address label for sending the pattern.

Clearly Mrs Smith ignored the request for block capitals

For anyone trying to decipher the details, the address is "Perry House, Ruyton-XI-Towns, Shrewsbury". The wonderfully named Ruyton-XI-Towns is a village beside the River Perry, in Shropshire.

And this is the pattern.

This is it, the back of the envelope is blank

It was advertised in 'Woman' magazine, 25th October issue. There is no year given, but the dress style, the drawing, and the coarse paper of the pattern all suggest wartime. There is no reminder anywhere that professional seamstresses must abide by the CC41 regulations - perhaps it was assumed that professional seamstresses wouldn't be using a magazine pattern?

Next, my love of Style patterns is well documented on this blog. Although 1979 remains 'peak Style' for me, my collection is expanding to include other eras. Most pattern envelopes (of all brands, not just Style) stick to the established display method of two or more women paying absolutely no attention to one another, against a blank background.

Style 1053 - the usual approach

For Style, there was a period in the 1950s when a few sketchy background details appeared. In this case, apparently no-one was going to work out for themselves that a full length, full-skirted dress, accessorised with gloves and a tiny bag, was an evening gown. So to make the point entirely clear, the artist added a chandelier!

Style 1170 - not beachwear, then

Concerning another regular topic on this blog, dressmaking and older women, the artwork is a masterclass in subtly suggesting how the different views were deemed suitable for different ages.

Strappy, with shoulders, and with sleeves

Leaving aside the fact that a pattern with a chandelier on it greatly appealed to me (yes, I am that shallow!), I was intrigued by the shaping of the bodice.

It's all in one piece (B)

The pattern suggests cutting the skirt pieces out in Vilene (interfacing), making the two skirts up separately, and then putting them together before making the pleats at the waist. That seems like a lot of bulk, and a very stiff skirt!

I can't help thinking a petticoat would be better

Although the instructions are more detailed than those on the Personality pattern, they are still scant by modern standards. Clearly Style didn't feel any need to make them longer and fill the entire sheet; instead a fair chunk of it is given over to advertising.

Advertising other Style patterns

While Style was definitely my preferred brand back in the 80s and 90s, I did use other patterns as well. One especial favourite was a McCall's pattern of a Laura Ashley design. I made it up twice, once in a cherry red baby needlecord and once in a Liberty poplin, and wore them both to death. In fact, I wore through the elbows of the poplin version! In an early version of 'remake, reuse, recycle' (or a late version of 'make do and mend') I simple cut off the bottom of the sleeves and converted it to a short sleeved dress. It's another of those patterns that I really regret getting rid of. I'd only seen it for sale a couple of times, and both times in a tiny size and in the U.S. with eye-watering shipping costs. So when I spotted it for sale in this country and in almost my size, I was unreasonably excited.

I am so happy to have this back

Back view

I must admit that I'm not sure if I would find back buttons as easy now as I did in the 1980s. Fortunately, the dress is loose and has a boat neck, so I’m hoping that I can get away with just one, or even no, buttons. Now to find some baby needlecord!

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