Sunday, 24 November 2024

And then there were three

As you can see from my Ravelry projects page, my plan to only have one knitting project on the go at once has failed dismally! It's actually even worse than it looks, as my slate Wondrella with cable details is set to 'hibernating' status for the time being.

Oops!

In my (feeble) defence, I always take my knitting when I go to my mum's, and I could hardly knit her Christmas present in front of her! She asked me to make her a longer version of Express Line, so that bit isn't a surprise, but she doesn’t know what wool I'm using. It's Stylecraft Special xl Super Chunky, so essentially the same yarn that I used for my version, but without the viscose flecks which provided the tweed effect. Other than the length, it's the same size as mine, so I can just follow the notes I made previously. Mum isn't a fan of light colours (like me), so the yarn options were quite limited. Fortunately, she shares my love of blue, so I know that she'll like this shade, called 'Petrol'.

Upper back

Meanwhile, my Lothian shawl is coming along nicely. I have completed the first set of five 'routes', complete with the zig-zag effect.

My five route colours

Zig-zags and termini

As this was my Edinburgh-related 60th birthday present to myself, I would like to get it completed while I'm still 60, but with so many other things to do just now that is looking unlikely. Despite this, I've taken on another project! I decided to join Susan Crawford's Colourwork KAL as a way of finally tackling stranded colourwork. My current plan is to knit Poppy from A Stitch in Time volume 3.

Poppy

Only the yoke is patterned, so it seems like an good way of easing into the technique. Plus, the pattern gives full instructions for knitting flat, which is how I will knit it. I can see why knitting in the round is so popular, but because I was taught to knit in the Scottish manner (with the right needle held against your body by your right arm), I find it ridiculously hard to hold two knitting needles. I've tried, but just can't do it. When I do knit on circular needles, I end up with the right needle end either wedged against me in some way, held in my left hand, or resting on the work. There's a lot of plain stocking stitch in Poppy, especially as I may knit the sleeves first to get them done, so that will give me plenty of time to practise working with two (stash) yarns before I have to do it with the good stuff.

And what good stuff it is. I bought the kit from Susan Crawford Vintage, and the yarn is gorgeous.

The yarn kit

So far, I've only knitted the gauge swatch, but the yellow has a wonderful depth and variation, and the knitted fabric blocks beautifully.

Blocking the gauge swatch

It is so much finer than any yarn I've used before, though - this is going to be a long project. Still, a short-sleeved jumper is not something I'm going to need any time soon.

Sunday, 17 November 2024

Tricks of memory

It's been one of those weeks where I've done a lot on various things, but not enough on any one thing to be worth a blog post. Instead, I'm raiding the archives and looking at a 40-year-old copy of Vogue Patterns. I've chosen 1984 because last week I was at an event related to the Liverpool Waterfront Transformation Project, and talking to someone about when I first came to the city in the early eighties - so the decade was on my mind. Although looking at some of the images now, they seem more alien to me than many of the illustrations in 1940s-50s issues. Even though I can remember many of the styles, it feels odd that I actually lived through that period.

Autumn 1984

In November 1984 I was a second year geography student, and most definitely not using Vogue patterns as they were well outside my budget. (For example, a Style blouse pattern from that year cost £2.25, while a Vogue blouse pattern cost £4.00.)

One thing which immediately struck me was that whereas in the 1950s and 1960s there were a lot of large advertisements for fabric manufacturers, complete with a list of stockists (usually department stores), by this time most of the advertising was for individual fabric shops.

Two of the fabric shop adverts

There are a couple of features on fabric brands: the much missed (by me at least) Viyella, and John Kaldor which, 40 years later, is still producing top quality fabrics.

Sadly not forever

I never knew the John Kaldor was originally an Australian firm

By 1984, Vogue patterns were clearly into the 'dress like a rectangle' years.

Why?

At least I like the shoes

The 'long skirt and flat shoes' combo was popular, too. I do remember dressing like this - at 1.63m/5'4" I must have looked swamped in fabric!

Worryingly familiar

I'm rather taken with the jumper in this illustration; I might need to look out for the issue of Vogue Knitting which contains it (because obviously, I am in desperate need of another knitting project!).

Promising

This jumper however I can definitely live without!

Bright and batwing and mohair oh my!

Skirts may have been long, but apparently trousers were not.

For that 'shrunk in the wash' look

After all these up-to-the-minute styles, it's rather a shock to turn a page and come across these.

Possibly aimed at older readers?

This issue also features Vogue's foray into patterns for interior décor. They are, to put it politely, not to my taste.

Frilled to bits

Readers were advised to "watch for more patterns in this series", which to me sounds more of a threat than an enticement! Certainly I won’t be rushing to hunt through later pattern books for them, although I do wonder how long this line lasted.

Sunday, 10 November 2024

Something different

I have started work on a new dress. Hardly out of the ordinary for me, but there are a couple of things which make this one a little unusual. First, it's black. The only completed plain black item ever to appear on this blog is a skirt which didn't even get its own post, and my previous attempt to make a black dress, Butterick 7598, has languished in the UFO pile for ages. But suddenly, I felt the urge to make a new black dress after over a decade of not wearing the colour. Second, possibly inspired by the Bedazzled exhibition, I decided to include some sort of embellished element.

I couldn't find any fabric I liked on the roll in my local fabric shop, but then I spotted this remnant. It's embossed in a pattern of circles, and has a very slight sheen. Unfortunately, the pattern is not on the crosswise grain (a common issue with remnants, I find), so I am cutting out in line with the circles and hoping for the best.

The fabric with the grain aligned to my cutting board

The obvious thing with remnants is that you have to work with what you've got, and in this case, I don't have a lot. My first idea was to make another Butterick 6866 view B, but that skirt takes a lot of fabric.

I have less than 3m of fabric . . .

. . . and this pattern needs far more than that

Instead, I have just cut out the bodice pieces for now, excluding the facings as I'm going to line the dress. Once the bodice is made up, I will find a suitable skirt pattern for the fabric I have left.

For the embellishment, I'm using black sequins in satin and shiny finishes. So far, I've made buttons for the bodice using square sequins sewn in a chequerboard effect and wrapped over a base of scrap perspex.

I'm on a bit of a fancy button roll!

The plan is to make the lower curved section out of fabric the wrong side up and covered with round sequins. Unfortunately, it's a long time since I have worked with sequins, and I had forgotten just how long it takes!

Thread-traced pattern piece prepped for embellishing

My (limited) progress so far

Hopefully I will get faster as I get more practice.

Sunday, 3 November 2024

New Look 6000, again

Finally, my sewjo appears to be making a cautious but welcome return. I've made a new dress - entirely unplanned and, for once, not in a vintage style!

It's a pattern from the 21st century!

When I went to the preview of the Bedazzled exhibition the other week, guests were encouraged to wear their most sparkly outfits. Unfortunately for me, the most/only sparkly thing in my wardrobe was the purple version of New Look 6000 view C with its beaded buttons.

The sum total of bling in my wardrobe

Given that I made it back in July 2012, I wasn't sure if I would still be able to get into it! To my amazement, I could, and wearing it again reminded me just how much I liked it. So much so that I decided on a whim to make a new version, using a stashed length of blue/grey fabric. It is suiting weight, slightly stretchy, and was part of a bundle of sewing stuff that I had bought in a charity shop because I wanted something else in the bundle.

New dress!

There isn't really a lot to say about the construction. I made the sleeves a little longer and omitted the cuffs as they are a nice feature, but bulky. Something which can't be worn with a jacket or cardi over the top was fine when I worked in a warm office - nowadays, not so much! I had also forgotten just how much New Look patterns run short on me; even though I had lengthened the skirt, it still needed a seam binding finish in order to make the hem as tiny as possible. Finally, I definitely need to learn how to do a full bust adjustment on a sheath dress, as it's undoubtedly snug in that area. Overall though, I'm happy.

#sewnshownseated

I'm particularly pleased with the button on the collar. I wanted to do some sort of beading again, but couldn't think what. Then I remembered this hair ornament which Dante Gabriel Rosetti used in several of his paintings.

Clockwise from top left, details from: Monna Vanna, The Beloved, A Christmas Carol, Mariana, The Bower Meadow

I drew a spiral freehand on some tearaway stabiliser (accidentally in the opposite direction to the original!), and sandwiched the fabric between this and a scrap of cotton to stop it from pulling out of shape. I sewed down a small cabochon at the centre, then couched a string of silver beads around this and along the spiral, and removed the stabiliser. Finally, I did single stitches in silver thread between the rows of beads, and arranged the end result over a large self-cover button. Because the fabric underneath blends into the dress, I feel that it gives a similar effect to the Rosetti ornament.

Close-up of the button

Finally, this unplanned project is another reduction on the Stashometer.

I'm amazed that I've used that much, tbh

It may only be a couple of metres, but with less than two months to go to the end of the year, I'll take any win I can get!