Vogue's mature woman goes globetrotting

Following on from last week's March 1942 issue of Vogue, another recent acquisition is the December 1959/January 1960 issue of Vogue Pattern Book.

Marking the start of a new decade

Naturally much of the magazine is given over to sewing for the festive season but, rather surprisingly (to me, at least), there is also a feature on Vogue Patterns in Russia.

Not what I was expecting

The article is about what it calls the "Moscow Fair", which was actually the American National Exhibition. This was held in Moscow in 1959, and ran from 25 July to 4 September. While the reciprocal Russian exhibition in New York concentrated on heavy industry and space exploration, the American National Exhibition was far more focussed on consumer goods. According to the accounts I have found online, US household names such as Sears, Kodak and General Motors took part, and clearly so did Vogue Patterns.

Whereas the 75 official exhibition guides were all younger than 35, a deliberate decision to reflect America's youth, Vogue Patterns chose to include a model to "represent the mature American woman". The woman selected for the role was Mary Whelchel, and the article is written by her. As the introduction states, she had "often appeared in Vogue Pattern Book", as one of the models who represented Mrs Exeter in both the Pattern Book and the main magazine. Although given that she celebrated her 44th birthday while in Moscow, she was at this point far from "approaching 60" as Mrs Exeter had been described when she first appeared in print.

The first two pages of the feature . . .

. . . and the last two. All the images are enlarged below

The exhibition included fashion shows, presumably featuring clothing from American manufacturers, but here Mary Whelchel focuses on her 'personal wardrobe', mostly made by her from Vogue patterns. A trip of seven weeks, combined with a baggage allowance of only 75 pounds and temperatures ranging from 45° to 90° F (7° to 32° C), required careful planning and clothes which could be part of multiple outfits. A big part of Mary's solution was her "wardrobe-within-a-wardrobe".

Some of the options in the capsule wardrobe

This consisted of two dresses with different sleeve lengths made from pattern 9747. Open-end zips replaced the waist seams, allowing the tops and skirts to be worn as dresses or separates. The capsule wardrobe was completed with an extra 'top', also made from 9747, and a coat with two zip-in linings. This was made from 9489, and could be worn belted and without the lining as a warm dress.

Vogue 9747, "Easy to Make"

Vogue 9489

As well as straight skirts, Mary’s wardrobe also included two pleated skirts made from pattern 9410.

Vogue 9410, "Very Easy to Make"

One was white, worn here with a matching blouse made from 9485.

Vogue 9485, "Easy to Make"

Not shoes I would wear for sightseeing!

The other was made in a leopard-printed silk.

Browsing in the pattern department of the GUM department store

The matching blouse was part of suit pattern 4028, with the jacket and skirt made in beige jersey.

Vogue 9048, this pattern was also available in Junior Miss sizes

The hood of the blouse worn as a cowl collar

According to the article "suits are essential to every travel wardrobe" and Mary made two - the beige one above, and 4867 in a black and white silk blend plaid.

Vogue 4867, another Special Design pattern

With Pat Nixon, wife of the then Vice President

She also had a three-piece, made from 4860. Like the pattern illustration, hers was made in red with white edging.

Vogue 4860

In Red Square

Her final daytime outfit was a knife-pleat skirt with a blouse and short jacket, all made from 4997.

Vogue 4997, I was unable to find the pattern for this one

For evening parties she made Vogue Paris Original 1391 by Jacques Heim in moss green chiffon.

Vogue Paris Original 1391

Mary made her version with a narrower belt and a fuller underskirt

Mary describes her role on the trip as "an American "ambassadress of goodwill"", something which she enjoyed. Most days were busy, but in the evenings the Vogue Patterns party was able to explore Moscow, and go to the ballet and opera at the Bolshoi, and also the State Circus. There were also some interactions with ordinary Russians. She writes about giving her lipstick (warmly received) to her female cab driver, and conversations, mostly in sign language, with people on the street. One of the most frequent questions she received was about why she didn't dye her greying hair! I’m not sure if this reflects Russians' view of American society at the time, or if it's just an age-old question directed at older women everywhere!