Vogue Couturier patterns, 1940

Back to my 1940 Vogue Patterns catalogue, and this time I'm looking at the Couturier patterns section.

Front page of the 'Couturier' section

Only a handful of styles came in larger sizes

According to Joy Spanabel Emery's excellent book, the Couturier line was introduced in August 1932. Which, if any, actual couturiers were involved was never explained. Instead the patterns were just described as "designed in Paris". Judging from the examples in the Commercial Pattern Archive, they appear to have started at around number 100, gone up to the 500s by 1938, and then started again in the 200s. I can only assume that Vogue wanted to keep the pattern numbers low to maintain an air of exclusivity for what was, at the time, their highest-priced line.

The Couturier section in the catalogue contains 78 patterns, each given a full page. These are just a selection, starting with the latest designs.

364

363

362

361

360

359

Earlier designs included a small schematic showing the shapes of the pattern pieces.

358, the schematic is bottom left

Schematic close-up

No fabric suggestions are included, but some designs have a note that "If the cotton or linen fabric used is Sanforized-shrunk, no allowance for shrinkage need be made".

345, suitable for cotton or linen

This pattern had clearly had an error in the details, and a correction slip had been pasted onto the page. The glue has dried over time, and it has come loose. The only difference that I can see is in the yardage requirements for the jacket lining.

338, with correction slip

Not all of the patterns are called "Vogue Couturier Design", some earlier ones are called "Vogue Couturier Model" and have a script, rather than a typed, description. Unlike the 'Design' patterns, these did not come with a silk label. This didn't prevent the UK price of some of the patterns being raised from five shillings to six shillings, however! The old price has just been blocked out, and the new one written beside it.

311

315

308, visible zip and no price rise

One thing which surprised me was the variety of styles available. As well as fitted, full skirted coats there are loose, straight coats.

246

Evening dresses meanwhile are mostly slim 1930s styles, but with a few unexpected variations thrown in.

355, very 1930s

575, circa 1938

297, circa 1939

The more extravagant designs (and possibly, evening dresses in general) would soon be withdrawn in Britain due to clothes rationing, but 297 in particular seems to hint at 1947 and the New Look. Although given the date, it may have been inspired by Gone With the Wind.