This is a recent acquisition.
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| I forgot to include a ruler in the photo - oops |
Although it describes itself as
"A quarterly magazine dealing with fashions for the matron", it is not about dressmaking, and nor is it really a magazine. It is actually a 16-page sales brochure for a firm called William Barker, and the title is clearly aimed at positioning the business as a 'dressmaking establishment' rather than a mere shop.
William Barker, (formerly F. H. Barker, and no connection to
Barkers department store in Kensington), was based in 215-221 Borough Road, London. The original buildings no longer exist, as the area was heavily bombed in the Blitz. However, according to
british-history.ac.uk, a Mr Barker and a Mr Nelson established a mourning warehouse in number 215 in the latter half of the nineteenth century, so I assume that Barker's was a continuation of this.
There is no date on the magazine, but a clue is provided on page two where there is a photograph of Borough Tube station, with a reference to
"the opening of this station".
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| The 'new' Borough Underground station |
The original Borough station opened in 1890, but it was rebuilt in 1922. It's not clear when in the year the remodelled station was opened, but an explanation in the foreword of the effect of
"New Duties" on goods makes me think that the magazine dates from summer 1922 rather than 1923.
The foreword also states that Barkers has specialised in catering for the 'matronly figure' for 25 years. Clearly a lot of the business was mail order: there is a measuring chart on page two. The magazine was sold on railway station bookstalls, and the six old pence cost was refunded on any orders or personal visits. Goods over 20 shillings, which covers most of the items featured, were sent post-free.
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| Measuring chart and coupon |
Barker's origins as a mourning warehouse are clear; the logo on one (but not all) of the pages includes
"black wear", and all of the clothes featured, apart from underwear, are available in black.
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| "Black wear" included in the logo |
Many are also available in navy, grey and dark brown, and a couple of blouses/coatees are offered in the traditional half-mourning colours of mauve and purple. The fabrics are usually plain, or with a white design, and for the one item I found with an option for patterned fabric, the patterns could be
"sent on application".
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| Coatee in patterned fabric |
Many of the descriptions talk of garments having
"the necessary long lines", and being cut to
"our ample measures".
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| Ample measures, expressly for the matron |
Some of these ample measures came at a price, however. The foreword mentions that larger sizes require more material (true) and
"more careful skill" (questionable). For all the dresses in the magazine, the price shown is for models up to 36" waist. Larger sizes are available for a flat rate of an extra ten shillings and sixpence, which works out at 11% extra for the cheapest dress on offer, and 7% extra for the most expensive. A similar premium applies to skirts. Coatees, however, are all available up to a 52" bust at a single price.
Even with a corset (in stock up to 40" waist, larger sizes to order), the chances of any customer having a 36" waist and a 52" bust seem unlikely, especially given that all the women in the illustrations are essentially tubular. I assume this was simply a ruse to draw customers in with an eye-catching price, with the sting being in the small print.
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| The only corset illustrated - others were available |
Most of the garments shown are described simply as being 'for the matron'. Only one is
"designed exclusively for the younger matron's figure".
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| Not sure what makes this 'younger matron'-friendly |
Equally, this dress is described as
"designed exclusively for the elderly lady" - I wonder if you had to prove your age before you were allowed to buy either of these models?
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| Dress for the elderly lady (and stole for a younger one) |
There are several other items for the older matron. As ever with these things, although they look slightly older than some of the other models in the magazine, none of the wearers are drawn as 'old'. There is not a wrinkle to be seen, and all chins are firmly defined and in the singular.
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| "Elderly ladies' blouse" |
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| "Suitable for the elderly matron" |
This dress is described as
"suitable for the figure needing fulness [sic]
and length". It is worn by the only model in the magazine wearing her hair in the more old-fashioned style of up in a comb.
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| The comb is just visible |
The description of this slip makes no attempt to hide its purpose.
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| "Especially designed for stout figures" - ouch |
Millinery is the only area where mourning is specifically mentioned.
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| Variety of hat styles |
This hat is available in
"mourning grenadine" (which I assume was non-shiny).
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| Fabric-trimmed hat |
Although just described as
"dainty bonnet", this is obviously a style for an older woman.
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| This really does look like something from another era |
This particular Widow's Hat is one of the
"large variety" which Barker's claims to always have in stock.
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| Apart from the veil, I would happily wear this |
Other than the handful of clearly more dated styles for women who have chosen not to follow the latest fashions, I don't see a huge difference between Barker's clothes and the general fashions of 1922. I have a couple of issues of 'Le Petit Echo de la Mode' from that year, and here are some of the dresses featured.
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| Two dresses, and three dress patterns |
Obviously, matrons would be unlike to wear robes de style like the one on the far left, but other than that, most of the differences that I can see are the shorter sleeves and wider necklines. Even the Armistice Day issue with younger women in mourning dress on the cover doesn't show noticeably different styles from those in the Matrons Dressmaker.
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| 5 November 1922 issue |
All this would seem to suggest that Barker's selling point was not necessarily 'old-fashioned' styles, but its larger sizes, cut to accommodate older figures, with details such as long sleeves, and a predominance of darker colours. With the exception of the darker colours part, I suspect that many women today who don't make their own clothes would welcome such a shop.
